As the Oscars returned to their home, the Dolby Theater, so did the red carpet rediscover a sense of grandeur. We're not back to a pre-pandemic world by any means, but last night's glamour proved a nice distraction. Indeed, the fashion was a high point in what might have been the worst Academy Awards of my lifetime. In any case, this piece is about celebrating sartorial beauty, not dwelling on a ceremony that was lackluster when it wasn't actively disastrous. And so, let's peruse the night's several red carpet looks, examine their visual impact and sense of elegance, bold risks, and classic tailoring. In the end, I'll present my top 10 favorite outfits…
First up, let's get some things out of the way. Nathaniel is doing his annual paper doll collection/poll of the nominated actress, so none of those stars shall be featured. That's not to say they didn't deliver some of the night's best looks. Indeed, Jessica Chastain's afterparty gown may be this year's maximum epitome of Old Hollywood Oscar glamour. Furthermore, in the past, whenever I've dared to share personal opinions on fashion, the readers' reaction wasn't especially positive. So forgive what might be conceived as bad taste and try to remember that this is all subjective. If I didn't mention your favorites, please shout them out in the comments. Let's celebrate!
Before we get to the top 10, there are a bunch of honorable mentions that deserve our applause. Zendaya and stylist Law Roach once again proved to be masters of the red carpet. By paying homage to Sharon Stone's iconic 1998 Oscars look - a GAP men's shirt and Vera Wang skirt – the star understood the ceremony's legacy and its place in fashion history. There's also an affirmation of her own stardom, showcasing her specific brand of daring 21st-century glamour. My only critique is that the Valentino ensemble is perchance too curated, missing the allure of Stone's original. While those vertiginously cropped tops have become something of a Zendaya trademark, this one seemed too flimsy and restrictive. That aside, it's immaculate.
Other stars paid indirect homage to the Oscars' red-carpet history by going for a very Old Hollywood elegance. Samuel L. Jackson looked divine in tailored velvet, while Sebastián Yatra was a vision in pink Moschino. Niecy Nash and Queen Latifah opted for grandiose splashes of color and dramatic silhouettes, while Rosie Perez once again showed why Christian Siriano is one of Hollywood's favorite designers. She looked like a silver screen goddess of yore, draped to ruby red perfection. Same goes for Marlee Matlin in satiny Monique Lhuiller.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, one must commend the risk-takers, even those whose daring didn't pay off. Renate Reinsve modeled bold Louis Vuitton that looked like a black-and-white lace dress in the process of disintegration or, perchance, a molting ostrich. There's cool obstinance to her presence that sells the garment. The same can be said of Jada Pinkett-Smith's emerald gown by Jean Paul Gaultier. When still, she looked like a living sculpture, though the voluminous design seemed cumbersome when in movement.
Dune makeup artist Eva von Bahr may have lost the little golden man, but she certainly won a lot of attention as she went through the red carpet. The Swedish three-time Oscar nominee delivered Art History camp in a dress printed with Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch and a bust-shaped purse. Another eccentric dresser was Jenny Beavan, who, once again, chose her Oscar look in reference to the film that got her the award. This time, she sported a Cruella-inspired ensemble infused with punk spirit. On one sleeve, she wore the message "I am woman, hear me roar" and sported "Naked without you" on the other cuff.
Finally, here are my favorite red carpet looks of the 94th Academy Awards:
10) Maggie Gyllenhaal in Schiaparelli
After her Spirit Awards look, Gyllenhaal is embracing outsized shoulders and dramatic proportions as her fashion staples. However, this look deserves further praise for how it fits into the history of Schiaparelli. It's both in its usage of sculptural hardware and a sense of dress as a piece of art.
9) Maya Rudolph in Valentino
Once upon a time, I might have quibbled about wearing such a simple caftan to the Oscars, but Maya Rudolph has made this sort of retro styling her own. Indeed, I can't imagine anyone else wearing this tangerine dream with feather trim, much less making it work. She looks like the hostess of a 70s variety show, and I, for one, love it.
8) Billie Eilish in Gucci
From one shapeless gown that's incurred a lot of online criticism to another formless pile of fabric. Apart from her Peaches and Cream Barbie look for the MET Gala and a couple of other looks here and there, Eilish's red carpet history is all about rejecting fashion that showcases or sexualizes one's body. She covers up as a norm, and this storm of ruffles and pleats feels like that aesthetic turned to eleven. Because I'm me, upon looking at this goth confection, I immediately thought it looked as if she was wearing an 1870s bustle gown sans bodice and the skirt pulled up to her shoulders. In a good way, of course.
7) Rita Moreno in Carolina Herrera
After an awards season full of voluminous theatricality, Rita Moreno chose to go to the Oscars in stately black. And yet, the sobriety of the color only serves to highlight her cheeky sense of style. All the fabric up top is a lot of fun, but it's balanced out by the clean lines of a column skirt. The feathers on top add a sense of silliness, combatting the seriousness of an all-black look and finishing off an ensemble that feels beautifully harmonious for all its odd proportions.
6) Simu Liu in Versace
This is probably too tight, but it's hard to complain about such tailoring choices when the final result is this breathtaking. The rich, warm red looks great on him, and all the gold details inject great drama into a classic suit. All these bold choices make for a devastating vision. Also, is that a harness I spy over his shirt, or is it a strap across his chest? Whatever it is, it complements the fit nicely.
5) David Oyelowo in Kutula by Africana
Menswear had a moment at this year's Oscars. For eons, Hollywood's greatest stars have been showing up for these events looking like boring businessmen in a cornucopia of identical suits. Not so at the 94th Academy Awards. David Oyelowo is a prime example. The actor modeled an eye-catching design that combines African-inspired prints and classic tailoring rather than merely choosing a bold color and jewelry. It's bold and unforgettable, from head to toe.
4) Kelly Marie Tran in Thai Nguyen
The Vietnamese-American actress who voiced the titular role in Raya and the Last Dragon honored her roots with her choice of Oscar look. Designer Thai Nguyen created this green modern spin on the ao dai and khan dong – traditional Vietnamese styles. Not only did Tran look amazing, but her director proved to be a great accessory, complementing his star's color story.
3) Lupita Nyong'o in Prada
Prada can often be too whimsical for its own good, covering gorgeous dresses in clutters of extraneous knick-knacks. In some regard, this gold number is more of the same, piling bejeweled flowers on top of a sea of sequins and paillettes. Moreover, in movement, the skirt tended to look almost like tinsel, Christmas décor refashioned as a gown. And yet, give Lupita Nyong'o this garment, and she makes it sing through poise and styling. The matching jewelry is a perfect choice, as is the crowning up-do. Instead of looking ridiculous, she's a queenly vision of pure movie star quality.
2) Timothée Chalamet in Louis Vuitton
The great thing about men getting a bit more adventurous on the red carpet is how such peacock tendencies often involve a slight twist on gender roles. For example, despite showing as much skin - if not less - as many women at the same event, Timothée Chalamet's lack of a shirt caused social media to erupt in outbreaks of lust and distaste. Still, what sells the look isn't the shock value or rock star attitude. Instead, it's all in the details. Notice the overlay of delicate sequined lace over the jacket's front, how the piece is tailored so it shortens at the back, revealing another sliver of skin and buckle details that more resemble breeches than regular dress pants. Finally, the vintage Cartier bling is exquisite.
1) Kodi Smit-McPhee in Bottega Veneta
No matter how great Chalamet looked, this year's king of Oscar fashion shall be another twink. Kodi Smit-McPhee is probably the best-dressed individual of the entire awards season, showcasing a penchant for sharp, precise tailoring and couture technique that's remarkably rare. While he isn't sporting maribou feathers around his forearms this time around, there's still a subtle sense of transgression to this fit. The pale blue recalls a clichéd prom look from decades ago, but the design is all about clean sophistication. His slim figure paired with such an outfit makes him a living fashion illustration, the proportions further enhanced by those giant shoes. And, as with Chalamet, there's an embrace of jewelry, a diamond necklace in place of a tie. It's not loud or extravagant, just a whisper of opulence and the most beautiful look of the night.
So, dear reader, what were your favorite red-carpet looks from this year's Oscars?