Queering the Oscars: The Costumes of "Orlando"

by Cláudio Alves

Sandy Powell's career has been closely tied to queer artistry since its genesis. After completing her education, the costume designer soon started collaborating with multi-hyphenated gay icon Lindsay Kemp whose stage work she had long admired, and, later, her jump from theater to film would be predicated on another queer genius, Derek Jarman. They'd work on four projects – Caravaggio, The Last of England, Edward II, and Wittgenstein – and the costumer would continue, keeping his memory alive after the director's death in 1994. Since then, even as her profile grew into the mainstream, Powell remained faithful to the idea and ideals of queerness in cinema, often joining forces with artists under the LGBTQ+ umbrella, Todd Haynes most of all.

As Pride Month 2023 reaches its end, let's remember this Academy darlings' first brush with Oscar. It was in 1993 when Sally Potter's adaptation of Virginia Woolf's Orlando earned Sandy Powell a Best Costume Design nomination…

Click to read more ...

Venice Gowns '22, Round 4

Ooops. We've been neglecting the fashion-watching duties so this is an abridged version of the gowns from the past few days before the closing ceremony (very soon). So who gets your vote for Best Dressed?

online polls

Venice at Home – Day 7: Between Reverie and Realism

by Cláudio Alves

In 1986, Joanna Hogg presented her thesis film at the National Film and Television School. Unlike the Sunderland photographs and experimental super-8 footage that had won her a place to study, Caprice feels like a repudiation of reality altogether. The short considers the Alice in Wonderland-esque journey of a mousy young woman through the pages of her favorite fashion magazine, all rendered in stylized staging and haute-couture. That work marked another's cinematic debut besides Hogg – Caprice was Tilda Swinton's first appearance on film. The schoolmates turned longtime friends turned artistic collaborators present their latest project at this year's Venice Film Festival – The Eternal Daughter, where the actress plays a double role.

Our Venice at Home program takes us back to one of the Italian director's first international hits and the second chapter in Hogg's multi-film memory play...

Click to read more ...

Venice Diary #6 - Banshees of Inisherin, Don't Worry Darling, and Tilda Swinton (twice)

by Elisa Giudici

Are Hollywood stars saving Venice as we enter the home stretch? The answer is yes, but not always willingly. Traditionally the back half of the Venice Film Festival is less glamorous, less exciting, and sometimes even a little dull. Toronto starts, a good portion of the international press leaves, and the most hideous filler of the competition fills the daily program. Not this year, though! Suddenly there's a movie that's even better than The Whale, so don’t worry darlings, today we have some real treats and gallons of drama...

Click to read more ...

1997: The Ensemble of "Female Perversions"

We're revisiting the 1997 film year in the lead up to the next Supporting Actress Smackdown. As always Nick Taylor will suggest a few alternatives to Oscar's ballot.

Women, amirite? You've got the unique expectations foisted upon them to perform their gender by strangers, coworkers (no matter the field), loved ones, and themselves. There’s the generational traumas, both inherited and inflicted. Not to mention the way their psychosexual hang-ups function as ungainly manifestations of their repressed selves desperately seeking some kind of release. You can try reaching out to others for help, but all you’ve really got is yourself, and who trusts that bitch?

This is the territory Female Perversions resides in...

Click to read more ...