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« TIFF: French Sexy Time Movies | Main | Women's Pictures - Amy Heckerling's Clueless »
Thursday
Sep172015

1963 Look Back: Liz Taylor's 10 Best Looks From "Cleopatra"

Abstew kicks off our celebration of 1963 as we countdown to the next Smackdown (date TBA but probably early October)...

There's epic film making and then there's Cleopatra. Certainly in a class all of its own, the film spanned different countries, directors, stars, budgets, an original run time that clocked in at over six hours, and one legendary love affair far more interesting than the one being portrayed in the final film. Thanks to audiences wanting to see if La Liz and Richard Burton's explosive relationship off screen was able to be captured on the 70 mm Todd-AO celluloid, Cleopatra ended up being the #1 box office champion of 1963...and still ended up nearly bankrupting 20th Century Fox. Originally budgeted at $2 million, the final budget ballooned into an unprecedented amount of $44 million (roughly over $300 million when judged for inflation today) including a million dollar contract for star Elizabeth Taylor, making her the highest paid performer at the time. (She ended up walking away with over $7 million due to delays and a percentage of the box office.)

And it feels like at least half of that inflated budget went toward Taylor's costumes alone. Setting a Guinness Book of World Record at the time, Taylor goes through 65 costume changes in the film and earned all 3 (yes, 3) of its Costume Designers the Oscar for their efforts. Renié was responsible for the women's costumes, Vittorio Nino Novarese created the men's, and thanks to Irene Sharaff, who was in charge of all of Elizabeth Taylor's looks, we have a sumptuous treasure trove of couture fit for a queen (or at least Hollywood royalty). Deciding on a more modern look and color palette than what would have actually been found in ancient Egypt at the time of the film's setting, Taylor's looks influenced early '60s fashion with an influx in Egyptian like jewelry and even inspired a Revlon "Syphinx" line of make-up. So in honor of the film's sartorial contributions to cinema, let's take a look at 10 of Elizabeth Taylor's best looks as the legendary Queen of the Nile...

10. Travel Rug Chic

Sure, there are far more elaborate looks that could have made the cut, but this burnt orange tunic with slits on both sides to revel a pleated white underskirt manages to make its way on the list because it's the first of the many looks we'll see Liz in. First impressions are always important and Liz leaves a lasting one with this ensemble, complete with dagger accessory - perfect for trying to usurp your brother! And bonus points for looking so polished and put together after spending gods know how long rolled up in a rug.

9. Leopard Battle Gear

When readying yourself for battle against the Romans, nothing says "Don't f**k with me" quite like a leopard skinned lined hooded coat and pointy witch's hat. Leopard skin was actually worn by the pharaohs and this style of headpiece is modeled after Egyptian crowns. But the blue bondage dress underneath is giving me Herve Ledger realness and the animal print coat is straight out of Real Housewives of Alexandria. 

8. Heated Argument / Sudden Quick Change (3 way tie)

I wouldn't exactly call the film, how do you say, good, but it definitely has moments of greatness. Like this particular scene in which Cleo and Mark Antony have a shouting match about...who knows. In the span of 2 minutes we've changed locales twice and Taylor has been outfitted in 3 separate outfits, that's less than a minute in each. But what's clever is how the conversation is started with a question in one outfit and then seamlessly answered while bedecked in another, making it seem like their fights are a continuous and repetitive loop. Also, look at that gilded laurel wreath Taylor is sporting in that second look. It's so elaborate and ornate and we literally see it for seconds and then never again in the film. (And they wonder why they went over budget...)

7. Stars for a Star

The 5 pointed star isn't usually a common motif in Ancient Egyptian decoration, which is why I enjoy this look - it's an unexpected choice. And because the star, thanks to the Hollywood Walk of Fame, has become synonymous with movie stardom, it's only fitting that Elizabeth Taylor should be covered in the symbol. And who doesn't love some eccentric headgear? 

6. Green With Envy

Green is the color most often associated with jealousy (just to make sure I just Googled, "What color is jealousy?") which is fitting for this scene in which Cleo learns of Marc Antony's command to return to Rome and be reunited with his wife. Cleo is jealous of the fact that she's not integrated into Antony's life, he belongs to another. Which all sounds very deep but honestly I chose this look because her hairstyle here is probably my favorite of hers in the entire movie. I love that golden snake running down the center of her head and how it's repeated on the sleeves of the dress. If you wanna keep your man in Egypt, gotta look your best to make him stay...   

5. Sunny Days Ahead 

Let's be honest, nothing about this look is Egyptian, Ancient Roman, or really historically influenced in any way. But it's definitely killer fashion. If I hadn't taken this screen grab myself, I could be persuaded to believe that this was what Liz Taylor wore to the 1963 Governor's Ball after the Oscar ceremony. The draped yellow chiffon is bright and summery and that floral turban is everything. In this scene Ceaser tells his counsel that they never need to visit Egypt because the Nile is in Cleopatra's eyes, or maybe he was just confused by how much that turban resembles a bedazzled swim cap. 

4. Coronation Finery

If you can't tell by now, I love an off-kilter hat - the wackier the better. But this one is actually based on the crowns of the pharaohs. The red one symbolized lower Egypt and the reservoir tipped white one stood for upper Egypt, when worn together like here (in the film, Ceaser places the one into the other) it represented the ruling of both, thus controlling all of Egypt. But the fact that they are both covered in sequins is pure Hollywood magic! Paired with that gorgeous silver and gold one shoulder beaded gown, Liz's Cleo is rockin' the ancient world.  

3. Pretty in Pale Pink

What to wear when you're greeting Marc Antony at an event in which you want to seduce and beguile him? How about this subtle shade of pink number topped off by an intricate necklace made entirely of golden Ceaser coins. Cleo tells Antony she had it specially made and that she wears it always. After driving him wild at dinner, he storms into her bed chambers to see if her claim is true. Sure enough, she's still wearing it. Which is the one and only time she will repeat an outfit - to prove a point. 

2. Mourning Becomes Miss Cleo

After Ceaser's death (um, spoiler alert? Nah, y'all should know that - it's history!), Cleo dons the traditional black for mourning. But this sexy, skin-revealing dress is anything but traditional. At first she's covered up by the billowing head scarf, but then she turns around and BAM! She strikes a pose revealing this slinky little number. Who says that widow's weeds need to be drab?

1. Golden Goddess

The top look couldn't have been anything other than this iconic look. Created from 24 carat gold cloth and hand stitched with over a thousand seed beads, bugle beads, and bead-anchored sequins, Cleopatra's grand entrance into Rome required nothing less than perfection. Designed to resemble a golden phoenix rising, Taylor is just that. The budget for all her gowns in this film was estimated at the time at almost $200,000 and certainly a bulk of that was spent on this shimmering stunner. The cape Taylor wears here was put on auction only 3 years ago where it sold for $59,375. And in 2000, no less an icon as Barbie was created a miniature replica of Elizabeth Taylor's show-stopping ensemble. It's a look as memorable as the legend herself. 

Do you have a favorite look from "Cleopatra"? Which of La Liz's 52 other looks do you love that didn't make the cut here? Make your case in the comments below.

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Reader Comments (11)

Great article Abstew, I love your choices.
I was lucky enough to tour Egypt, and spend a lovely afternoon in the Cairo Museum and I swear the jewelry section is astonishing. Which is my way of saying I totally understand why the designers went bonkers trying to capture the look of Cleopatra.

My favourite is the Golden Goddess ensemble, it captures the elaborate designs and overall look of wealth appropriate for Cleopatra.
All Hail...

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterLadyEdith

Liz and Cleopatra are definitely sisters under the skin. There's an eternal allure, glamor and mystery to both. Whatever you say about this infamous relic, the film is a fascinating failure that yields an endless tapestry of visual splendor.

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered Commenterbrookesboy

Hollywood serving Ancient Egyptian ELEGANZA. Well deserved Oscars for iconic ensembles.

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterJoel V.

Great essay on many of Cleo's look. I think without question the Golden Goddess can't be beat and was designed with just that idea in mind but all the others are breathtaking. Green was Liz's color and that getup is amazing but I think my runner up is the Leopard Battle Gear.

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered Commenterjoel6

While these are all magnificently elegant ensembles, I can't get over the fact that this film won the Best Costume Design Oscar the same year Piero Tosi was nominated for The Leopard. Cleopatra's cotumes may be beautiful and fashionable but they are nothing, IMHO, in comparision to the sheer genius of Tosi working for Visconti.

With that said, the Golden Goddess costume is really extraordinary, and, if possible, it's even more impressive in person. I can just imagine what it must have been like to look at Taylor while she was wearing it. A goddess indeed.

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered Commenterca

Costume articles are the best.

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered Commenterchinoiserie

It's a truly spectacular movie.

September 17, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterJaragon

Great fun article inspired by an epic car crash of a movie. I can't get over Look #5 (Sunny Days Ahead). A stunning visual summation of 60's Liz-ness dialed up to 11 and then some. You're right. If she didn't wear that to the Governor's Ball, she sure as hell should have.

September 18, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterKen

Damn, now I have to see this film.

September 18, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterGolden

I was obsessed with this movie since I was a kid. I probably was 9 years old and I was anticipating the first time it was on tv in Spain. My parents decided to take me to the oculist that same day and he put me these drops that made my vision blur. I was so mad my eyes almost hurt trying to see something. Somehow the spectacular gowns and production design were so brilliant that they broke through the mist. I was in love ever since.

September 18, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterSeisgrados

This was such a fun read! :)
I'm sad I missed it the first time around and only got to ot now that Nathaniel linked to it on the September wrap links.
I would probably bump up the green dress a couple of positions to wrap up the top 3 along with that Golden perfection and sexy black widow.
That's why they didn't need superhero movies back in the day, they had Liz Taylor in Cleopatra!

October 2, 2015 | Unregistered CommenterCarmen Sandiego
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