Queering the Oscars: The Delicious Costumes of "The Talented Mr. Ripley"
Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 8:00PM Team Experience has been looking at LGBTQ+ related Oscar nominations. Tonight we're serving lewks!
By Christopher James
For a movie with iconic nude scenes, the costumes of The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999) are just as memorable and titillating. It’s fitting that the Oscars honored the incredible work of costume designers Ann Roth and Gary Jones for the film, which should’ve shown up in more categories than the five it was nominated for. Though the actual Oscar went to Lindy Hemming’s period-specific and gloriously gaudy work in Topsy-Turvy, we’re still cheering on the sidelines for Ripley.
Let's count down the 10 queerest looks from the movie...
Fashion can be one of the strongest craft elements in building character. We chart the rise of duplicitous leach Tom Ripley (Matt Damon) through the way he begins to dress and emulate playboy Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law). The movie is about class and privilege, with the poor Tom having to social climb in order to keep up in the world that Dickie, Marge (Gwyneth Paltrow) and the rest of their crew of socialites reside. By clothing and deception, he’s able to manipulate and fool many in the upper class, particulary Meredith Logue (Cate Blanchett), a naive rich girl clouded by infatuation.
This isn’t an article about skill though. At the end of the day, The Talented Mr. Ripley is about pretty people wearing the most fabulous outfits. Who doesn’t want their summer vibe to be “hunky lothario lounging around Italy?”
10. Celia Weston at the Opera
Having Celia Weston show up for one scene at an opera is LGBTQ+ culture. I don’t know how else to explain it. Love seeing character actresses show up in gowns for just a couple scenes. Plus, she looks gorgeous in this red and white patterned number.
9. Marge’s Head Scarf
There’s no better genre of look than Gwyneth Paltrow trying to look down to Earth. You know what, she achieves it in this simple white look, with her hair tied back by a glorious scarf. Marge looks carefree waltzing around Italy, unaware of the havoc about to be thrown her way. There’s a lot of virginal coding of Marge, an innocent lamb compared to the debaucherous Dickie. Yet, that’s just the way everyone, including Tom and Dickie, underestimate Marge. She’s more than just her cool demeanor.
8. Meredith Logue’s White Top and Embellished Sweater
Cate Blanchett conveys Meredith’s naivety with gumption. She knows what she wants, but she doesn’t necessarily square that up with reality. Fooled by Tom Ripley, believing him to be Dickie Greenleaf, she comes off strong in the Spanish Steps in Rome. The costume reminds us that she’s a rich girl, who knows not what she’s getting into. At all points, she resembles a porcelain doll, a treasure to be taken care of for fear it may fall apart. Plus, if Cate Blanchett isn’t playing gay, she’s at least setting her sights on a gay man.
7. Freddie Miles Prep School Chic
Who else makes an impression as quickly as Philip Seymour Hoffman. A good friend of Dickie’s, Freddie Miles is everything Tom wishes he could be. He moves through the world like a wrecking ball, flauting his confidence at every moment. Though not explicitly named as gay, Hoffman gives Freddie a flamboyant flair that suggests he and Dickie could have at least traded a few fond moments together. This is precisely what gets under Tom’s skin; Freddie feels comfortable with Dickie, while Tom is always angling to get more. Freddie’s prep school look he’s wearing in his final moments feels like a perfect encapsulation of him. He’s always acting a bit younger than he actually is, but having great fun doing so.
6. Peter Smith Kingsley’s Turtleneck
They really coded Jack Davenport’s Peter Smith Kingsley as queer right away by putting him in a turtleneck. Still, we’re not mad about it. He looks fantastic and it gives Tom the suggestion of a more comfortable life.
5. Dickie and Marge’s Patio Attire
No one served “we saw you across the bar and liked your vibe” energy better than Jude Law and Gwyneth Paltrow in this film. Lounging around their seaside home, both of them are in skimpy outfits that convey comfort as much as sex appeal. The light pink shorts on Law are absolutely a dog whistle to the buttoned up, Tom. Gwyneth’s cover up over her similarly pink bathing suit top is a complete serve. Pair it with a floral skirt and you have a look!
4. Dickie’s Final Outfit
For so much of the film, Dickie is clad in gorgeous, white loungewear. He’s always styled to reflect how Tom sees him -- a golden God to lust after. As Dickie and Tom take a boat out to sea, it’s fitting that he’s wearing a handsome, jet black shirt. He’s still debonaire, but now we’re seeing more of the tempestuous, brat that his Father alluded to. Dickie is about to break Tom’s heart, and in return Tom is going to break Dickie’s skull. For so much of the movie, he’s made being a bad boy look so good, a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Seeing him for who he really is just makes us want him more.
3. Marge’s Leopard Spotted Coat
The warm and reliable Marge has changed her spots. She knows that Tom has murdered Dickie and she won’t be silent about it. Too bad the world, personified by investigator Alvin MacCaron (Phillip Baker Hall), won’t listen to her. This is a jaw dropping fashion moment, also signaling a change in Marge. She’s no longer dressed for a breezy romantic adventure film, nor is she just a grieving widow. This glam, severe look showcases she means business and that she's also realized she's in a thriller.
2. Dickie’s Oversized Tie and White Suit
Tua fa Americano!
Dickie and Tom go on an epic night out where they end up singing their hearts out together. Dickie’s broad suit and undone tie suggest that his clothes are just barely staying on. He’s not rich and pretentious, but meticulously messy and, most importantly, cool. How could you not want to be Dickie’s best friend… or even more.
1. Tom Ripley's Lime Green Speedo
For a man with a talent to blend in, it’s fitting that he’s unmistakable in his first meeting with playboy Dickie Greenleaf. Matt Damon makes an instant impression in this high waisted speedo. Can this look come back in style? Flattering for both one’s figure and… anatomy.
What are your favorite looks from The Talented Mr. Ripley? Let us know in the comments.
More 'Queering the Oscars'
- Actor - A Special Day
- Costume Design - Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
- Costume Design - Orlando
- Documentary - Changing Our Minds
- International Feature - All About My Mother
- Original Song - Calamity Jane
- Screenplay - Heavenly Creatures
- Screenplay - The Damned
- Screenplay - Far From Heaven
- Supporting Actor - Dog Day Afternoon
- Supporting Actor - Longtime Companion
Reader Comments (7)
God this is such a perfect movie. As much as I would have relished nominations for all 5 main performers, there's something delicious about the Academy singling out Law - hot young actor being hot doesn't usually land a nomination.
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I would have included Tom's huge wrap around towel,how many could fit in that.
My Best Picture Best Actor Best Supporting Actress Paltrow winners of 1999.
Almost 25 years later it still holds up as a masterpiece of tension and gay subtext.
"There’s no better genre of look than Gwyneth Paltrow trying to look down to Earth." Chris, a truly hilarious sentence. Bravo for this entire article...it's insightful and cheeky.
This movie is a masterpiece, 24 years later, it's only gotten better, while almost every Oscar nominee in every category that it missed just looks worse. Should have been the year's Best Picture, Director, Actor, Supporting Actor, and Adapted Screenplay.
We haven't had anybody since Anthony Minghella who has been able to regularly exercise "literary" instincts in cinematic ways to give a film the same kind of texture and scope of a great novel. He was taken way too soon.
Truly a perfect film. Maybe the best in a strong year (although I'd never knock The Insider). Should've gotten additional nominations for Picture, Director, Damon, and Blanchett - and shoud've won for Supporting Actor and Screenplay.
Love this appreciation of its outstanding costumes. And perhaps most of all love that you included Celia Weston. LGBTQ+ culture indeed.
Celia Weston would make an A+ inspired choice for an Honorary Oscar.
Glad to see so much Ripley love, and for Celia Weston as well! Always loved her.